Recently I lost my surfing mojo. I had a nasty wipeout where I was spun, tumbled, dragged and beaten by one wave after another after getting myself trapped right where the waves were breaking. Ever since then, I’ve been a complete wuss. I’ll only go out on small, calm days and, even then, I find it hard to commit to anything but the tiniest little waves.

So a friend of mine suggested that I watch Bustin’ Down the Door for inspiration. It’s a documentary about a group of young South African and Australian surfers who single-handedly created the world of professional surfing in the 70s. They took Hawaii by storm, riding the craziest waves with a confidence bordering on insanity, all to get the world to sit up and take notice of the sport. The very existence of today’s billion dollar surfing industry is thanks to the stars of this documentary - Mark Richards, Peter